How Buy Now Pay Later is transforming retail turnover

Buy Now, Pay Later (BNPL) services have rapidly evolved from a niche payment option to a mainstream financial tool, reshaping how consumers shop—and how retailers sell. Anyone not familiar with the term ‘Buy Now Pay Later’ may recognise the names Klarna, or Clearpay which are often available as payment options at the online checkout. With over 380 million global users in 2024 and UK market growth projected to hit over £47 billion by 2029, BNPL is no longer just a convenience—it’s a strategic lever for boosting retail performance.

Most popular with millennials, the rise of BNPL is expected to continue as Gen Zs are also turning to BNPL as a payment option. In this article, we discuss the possible setbacks and considerations for retailers.

A sales uplift?

Retailers offering BNPL options are seeing measurable benefits such as;

  • 9% increase in purchase probability after introducing BNPL.
  • 10% larger basket sizes on average.

This means that BNPL doesn’t just drive impulse buys; it has initiated long-term changes in consumer spending patterns. But why does it work? Research shows that BNPL reduces the psychological barrier of upfront payments. Consumers feel less financially constrained, even if their actual disposable income hasn’t changed and more in control of their budget through the option of flexible repayments.

However, for the retailer, providing a BNPL option comes at a cost as providers typically charge a fee per transaction where BNPL is used.  In return, retailers get paid in full upfront as the provider is responsible for collecting instalments, in turn improving cash flow and reducing payment concerns. For some industries, such as high-end retail and technology where the purchase price of the item is high, this seems to be worthwhile as sales are booming.

What retail stores are benefitting most?

Certain sectors are seeing particularly strong BNPL-driven growth:

  • Fashion and luxury: Clearpay reports a 72% increase in designer fashion sales since 2021 due to the flexible payment offerings. BNPL makes it easier for consumers to commit to a purchase when they can stagger the payments.
  • Workwear: Sales of trousers and blazers surged by 734% and 56%, respectively, as office culture rebounds.
  • Tech and electronics: High-ticket items become more accessible when split into manageable payments.

The downside to retailers?

While the upside is clear, there are strategic considerations that retailers must understand.

  • Late fees and consumer debt: Over 10 million Brits paid BNPL late fees in 2024, totalling nearly £250 million. Late fees can either be a set amount or a percentage of the purchase price. Late fees can deter customers from purchasing again or cause administrative strain.
  • Many consumers will now purchase numerous items with the intention of keeping one. The freedom of not having to pay an upfront cost makes it easier for people to buy in mass and return whatever is unwanted. This can increase postage and packaging labour and could impact workforce.
  • Regulatory changes: The FCA is introducing rules to ensure affordability checks and clearer consumer protections. This may make BNPL less accessible to some consumers further down the line to protect them from excessive debt and financial difficulties.
  • Brand alignment: Retailers must ensure BNPL aligns with their brand values and customer experience. Late fees and issues with BNPL, despite being from an external provider, can cause strain on the retailer– customer relationship.

BNPL is more than a payment method—it’s a growth engine for modern retail. By reducing friction at checkout and enhancing perceived affordability, it empowers consumers and boosts turnover. But as with any financial tool, success lies in responsible implementation, clear communication, and ongoing monitoring of customer outcomes.

The hidden cost: BNPL and the rise in returns

One of the less talked about side effects of BNPL is the significant uptick in return rates. Consumers now feel more comfortable ordering multiple versions of the same product—different sizes, colours or styles—with the intention of keeping only one. As they’re not paying upfront, there is less perceived financial risk, even if they end up returning the majority of the items.

For retailers, this shift can be costly.

  • Higher return volumes increase the burden on warehousing and logistics teams.
  • Processing returns—including restocking, quality checking, and refund administration—adds labour and operational costs.
  • Cash flow can be disrupted if returned items can’t be resold immediately or are seasonal in nature.
  • Packaging waste and shipping duplication also raise sustainability and environmental concerns.

Even though BNPL providers pay the retailer upfront, the return process still sits with the retailer, and the knock-on effects can be significant. In sectors like fashion and footwear, return rates have reportedly reached as high as 40–50%, with BNPL accelerating this trend.

Some retailers are now exploring ways to manage this:

  • Charging for returns to discourage over-ordering
  • Using customer data to identify high-frequency returners
  • Limiting BNPL use for certain high-return items

BNPL may drive conversion, but it’s also fuelling a “try now, decide later” mindset. Retailers need to factor the operational strain of this behaviour into their wider BNPL strategy.

Closing thoughts…

BNPL isn’t just changing how customers pay; it is transforming how they shop, return items and engage with retail brands. While the headline benefits of increased basket sizes and higher conversion rates are appealing, the broader impact on operations and customer experience deserves closer attention and highlights how advancements in financial technology can promote retail growth. Given the consideration that many retailers are giving to the shifting regulatory landscape they should also be considering whether BNPL is driving truly profitable growth or encouraging unsustainable behaviours.

Rather than viewing BNPL as a simple checkout enhancement, retailers should treat it as a commercial tool that works best for those who implement it with clear objectives, robust monitoring and alignment to their brand and operational capacity will be better placed to benefit from the model without being exposed to unnecessary risk.

We always recommend that you seek advice from a suitably qualified adviser before taking any action. The information in this article only serves as a guide and no responsibility for loss occasioned by any person acting or refraining from action as a result of this material can be accepted by the authors or the firm.

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